#11 | Gin Mill, Kraków, Poland
Last Visit: April 2023
Nowadays, when you mention, that a bar is calling itself ‘Gin bar’ and especially confronting bar enthusiasts with that term might not get you the most excited reactions, and for good reason. The Gin craze has, in waves and different places, come and gone, there are gin purists and fanatics and those who will simply always prefer other spirits. In some cities and countries, the Gin & Tonic rules over other mixed drinks and overpriced products fill the supermarket shelves. As was already discussed in ‘How I fell in love with bars’, my very first serious cocktail contact involved Gin. While there is a nostalgic connection to it, I too have moved on to other favorites in the years after. Still, Kraków’s Gin Mill will most definitely defy expectations, both in terms of what a bar focussing on Gin can do and what Gin itself can do. Some of you might have already read the very first article covering a Polish bar, when we were writing about The Trust. Some might have also heard that, indeed, Tag is now listed on the still influential (if not objective) World’s Best Bars list. Why then am I looking at a small, relatively unknown place ? Exactly because there is less attention on such bars, and they fly under the radar of foreign audiences.
Copyright: Gin Mill
Gin Mill sits at the entrance of Kraków’s Kazimierz district, just a few streets away from other noteworthy bars such as The Trust and William Rabbit. It is an intimate space, with only a handful of chairs around the wooden counter, upon entering one can already take a good look at most bottles, ingredients, and tools stowed behind it. It also means that the person behind the bar can immediately tend to every guest, greet them, advise and educate. Aesthetically Gin Mill pairs its Art Deco inspired logo design with a Japanese wood and glass based interior, some might recognize empty Roku bottles being used to store tap water. The light wood, direct access to the street and the clean presentation of most drinks all lend it an authenticity and approachability that immediately dispels the hyped up stereotype of Gin bars.
One of the most disappointing things to read about any bar, no matter if it is Gin or Whisky for example, is the ‘over 500 bottles of XYZ’ seemingly being the only marketable point. Gin as a spirit fell into that trap constantly. While Gin Mill does use that trope as well in their online presence and signs, once you enter the bar, it will be the last thing on your mind. The only interesting part about Gin from the perspective of uninspired Gin bars appeared to be, that you can ‘Mix & Match’ different kinds with tonics and maybe sprinkle some herbs and spices on top if you were feeling ‘adventurous’. Funny, then, that it only happened to the hype fueled category of Gin and you never saw a ‘Mix your own highball with the Whisky of your choice’ bar (Although there can certainly be a debate about the rise of the so-called ‘Highball bar’). The point is that Gin itself is a fascinating base for many great drinks, from easy Fizzes and Collins, to dense Martinis, to being a great starting point for infusions. A simple bottle of Tanqueray Ten goes a long way with the right ingredients. Some of the greatest sensory experiences at Fragrances in Berlin were based on Tanqueray.
Copyright: Gin Mill
There are, as I would put it, three ways to approach Gin Mill. Number one is going for the classic, or ‘Best Of’ menu, which features non-seasonal drinks such as Martinis, Martini Twists and Negronis, but also a couple of options based on Whisky or Rum. Number two would be a seasonal menu, built around a concept, with the latest being focused on a single ingredient after which the entire drink is named. The third option is to go the tasting route and have a flight of gins paired with tonic, or have any classic Gin drink outside the menu using the bottles behind the bar. Don’t let the ‘regular’ menu fool you, there are some fantastic signatures in there, such as the Truffle Negroni.
Truffle Negroni:
| Gin Mill Truffle Gin
| Sweet Vermouth
| Campari
A really smooth, flavorful interpretation of a Negroni as I would prefer it. The truffle, through its oily elements counters bitterness and the culinary nature of making truffle a part of the base spirit, adds the element of food that often makes Negronis by themselves feel lackluster.
"Truffle Negroni"
The seasonal menu, to the credit of Gin Mill, is also refined and centered. It does not try to overwhelm with quantity, but rather shows the range of what is possible with Gin. By keeping the actual ingredients hidden behind a single ingredient, it can surprise people who only think of Martinis and G&T.
Bergamot:
| Gin
| Bergamot and Lemon Aperitivo
| Lacto Fermented Bergamot
A beautifully condensed, splash of citrus and flowery aroma. The Aperitivo, being a mix of herbs, fruits, and sugars, is already an almost complete product that only needs a little added alcohol and balance, which is why this cocktail works so well. It does not try to muddle its elements into an unrecognizable, overblown drink.
"Bergamot"
Jalapeño:
| Gin
| Jalapeño Triple Sec
| Jalapeño Shrub
As a lover of peppery and sharp Mezcals and Tequilas, it is great to see the Gin here being used as a capable starting point to explore bold flavors. The Jalapeño has a wonderful green note to it and comes through fresh and clean, while the sugars and acids balance and give texture. Elsewhere, this might have been turned into a ‘Jalapeno Gin and Tonic’, giving guests the exact same feel and texture of any other G&T they can get at a thousand other places. However, by really rooting this drink in a culinary experience, it shows the spirit’s versatility.
"Jalapeno"
If the classics and the seasonals did not yet convince people that it is in fact possible to create a bar around a single type of alcohol, there is always the option to go ‘off script’ and experiment. The limited space at Gin Mill in a way forces them to make a choice in what kinds of Gin they do want to stock. Thankfully they often choose something not found anywhere else, such as Gin from Poland or the Baltics, and by rotating bottles in and out. To give you just one example of a great discovery, Four Pillars Shiraz Gin in a Martini or Negroni Twist can be magic and again shows the range of Gin beyond different notes of ‘herbal’. With a maximum of less than 10 guests at a time and everyone seated at the bar, there is the chance to actually talk to the team, get their opinion, give feedback and be inspired for the next order.
I believe that above all, it is a passion and respect for what you do, that elevates a place from just fueling a short-lived hype to actually offering something new. Years ago, we, that is the LT team, were visiting the House of Gin in Berlin, also a place specifically created around that spirit. At that point, every city in Germany had to have a ‘Gin bar’. Left and right, new brands were created, with everyone punching their ticket to the hype train about to pick up steam. House of Gin however did something, that all these other places with their ‘1,000 bottles of Gin’ did not. They were showing a genuine passion for the product, by letting guests choose their cocktail from a handwritten book listing every single Gin available. This book was complemented by a serving recommendation, as well as surprising signature cocktails based on Gin and Japanese plum wine, for example.
I have felt the same level of understanding whenever I sat down at Gin Mill, to either try their signatures, or discover something created in the moment. It also helps, that so much of the experience relies on homemade ingredients and not on bottles with the biggest marketing campaign behind it. You will find a level of attention to detail, knowledge of product and willingness to experiment at Gin Mill, that might just change people’s mind about Gin.
Cheers /jf
