4 Countries, 4 untypical Rosé wines
Somewhere at the beginning of this year, I had the spontaneous idea of trying out some “exciting” rosé wines. Like many people really interested in wine, I've always avoided this category, preferring to devote myself to everything else, whether renowned classics or avant-garde wines, even orange wine hype rather than these “flat fruity summer wines”. But occasionally, when shopping for wine in good stores, I noticed interesting notes for a few (albeit an absolute minority) rosé's that didn't sound at all typical, you just have to look carefully.
When I say “exciting” or “atypical” in the title, I only mean the aromas and flavors. Production, origin, etc. are of secondary importance. Simply away from the typical and still by far the most popular style, the lean and fruity (and even there rather in the narrow spectrum of strawberry and raspberry) Provence archetype. I have therefore deliberately ignored these other factors and looked for exciting aromas from all over the world and different grape varieties, in order to present them briefly here. So I can only recommend to everyone, even apart from those particular ones presented here: Try out grape varieties for rosé wines that are still rather rare in most countries; rosé made from Tempranillo, Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon can produce exciting and even quite rustic wines with plenty of character!
One of these three mentioned varieties is also represented today with the 2022 Montes Cherub made from 100% Syrah (please note that for later vintages such as the 2023, there is information online about the addition of 15% Grenache, presumably to “throttle” it a little). Combined with the very special climate in Chile, you can expect an intense and — despite its relatively high residual sugar to acidity ratio — fresh and tangy rosé with exciting tropical notes in between, pineapple and grapefruit are quite prominent. Great for a salad, for example, especially with fruit or lighter, South American dishes.
Next to it is the “Sommer im Park” from Graf Adelmann, 2019, a historic winery with a long history that has even won the Red Dot Design Award for its line-up. The name is almost a little surprising, because yes, there are more typical rosé notes here, but there are also yeast and fermentation aromas, as well as a distinctive, light smoke, reminiscent of roasted white nuts like macadamia and almonds. A bit more exciting than most rosé wines found in casual gatherings at the park, I would say. And despite “only” 87P from me, an ideal accompaniment to braised or smoked fish dishes in particular. When drinking it, you can really imagine a crispy, fresh sandwich with slightly smoky fish, for example.
2019 Graf Adelmann Sommer im Park
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The Graf Adelmann winery is located against the beautiful backdrop of Kleinbottwar in Baden-Württemberg. There, the journey leads to Schaubeck Castle, where the Graf Adelmann family has its headquarters and runs the winery. This estate, which has an area of 21 hectares, has been accepted into the Verband Deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter e.V. and now produces a total of 160,000 bottles per year.
Matured in stainless steel tanks.Category: Rosé wine
Country of origin: Germany
Region: Württemberg
Designation/Sub-Region: Kleinbottwarer Oberer Berg
Producer: Graf Adelmann
Grape variety: Cuvée
Alcohol content: 13%
Residual sugar: 2,3g/l
Acidity: 6,0g/l
Price: 9-11€
Nose:
Some muddled strawberry, tangerine and nice yeasty notes, roasted almonds, also noticeable rhubarb and currant
Taste:
The main note is noticeably rhubarb, some red currants, subtle strawberry and the light roasted nuts are clearly present
Comment:
Strikes a good balance between easy to drink and yet quite strong in character for a rosé, a somewhat thin body, which can be a plus in summer or with suitable food.
87P
2022 Montes Cherub
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The grapes for the Montes Cherub Rosé come from vineyards in El Arcángel in the Colchagua Valley. Located near the coast, the perfect climatic conditions and soils characterized by granite and clay offer ideal conditions for producing this juicy, fresh Chilean rosé wine.
Category: Roséw wine
Country of origin: Chile
Region: Valle de Colchagua
Designation/Sub-Region: -
Producer: Montes
Grape variety: 100% Syrah
Alcohol content: 13%
Residual sugar: 5,4g/l
Acidity: 3,9g/l
Price: 10€
Nose:
Gooseberries, fresh pineapple and young strawberries, some pink grapefruit, rosehip and a little mint, great freshness and fruitiness, but with a little variety
Taste:
Rose petals, pineapple and pink grapefruit, rosehip tea, a hint of yeast dough, some salt, and strawberries, acidity nicely integrated, fresh, slightly tingling
Comment:
Incredible value for the price, great light tropical notes and a thoroughly complex aroma spectrum for rosé, Chile can also produce great rosé wines!
89P
In the second half, we go one step higher in terms of quality. Here we have the 2022 Cerasuolo d' Abruzzo Superiore from the Villa Gemma range, which is run by Masciarelli. They often offer very high quality for relatively low prices, the entry-level wines start at 11€ and the focus is up to 30€, the special Riservas then at just under 50€. Our pick for today has already been voted into the top 50 rosé wines in Italy (of 2022) and even into the top 10 there, in Italy itself, as well as by Falstaff magazine and that for just under 20€! Deep, complex, darker than other representatives of the category, it can also be combined with light meat dishes, especially Mediterranean with a few herbs, a dream. 100% Montepulciano rosé wines are certainly something I put on my wish list for the future.
Then there's the Petite Nymphe with its artistic label, by Flo Busch. A project in the natural wine sector that is now quite well known in the natural wine community, albeit still a relatively young house. Biodynamic, like his well-known uncle Clemens Busch on the Moselle, the work done here in Languedoc is organic, and the wines are accordingly all bottled unfiltered. I was particularly fascinated by two notes here: On the one hand, a very definite, lactic acidity on the nose, which is noticeably reminiscent of fresh, handmade yogurt and fine orange zest is also clearly present, together reminiscent of a picnic in spring. It could be used in a variety of ways, with salads, fish, or small, light, cold meat dishes in summer.
2022 Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d' Abruzzo Superiore
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The vineyards, which are cultivated in the traditional Abruzzo pergola, are located on medium-limestone, clayey soils at an altitude of around 400 meters above sea level. After the harvest by hand with a yield of 90 quintals per hectare, the grapes were pressed and destemmed to obtain the must. Alcoholic fermentation took place at a controlled temperature with maceration of the must on the skins for 24 hours. Maturation lasted 5 months in contact with the fine yeasts.
Category: Rosé wine
Country of origin: Italy
Region: Abruzzi
Designation/Sub-Region: -
Producer: Masciarelli
Grape variety: Montepulciano 100%
Alcohol content: 14%
Residual sugar: 2,2g/l
Acidity: 5,7g/l
Price: 15-18€
Nose:
Intense pomegranate, with cherry, already halfway to red wine, but then there is also some pink grapefruit, roses, mineral notes and a hint of sweet smoke and strawberries
Taste:
Silky body and yet quite powerful, pomegranate again fully in the center, minerals, thyme, wild strawberries, toasted oak, laurel, hint of smoke
Comment:
I was fascinated by this one. Dark, complex, deep, but still with the lightness of a rosé. Spicy, fruity, slightly smoky and a beautiful interplay of acidity and sweetness, it has a lot to offer at a great price.
92P
2022 Flo Busch Petite Nymphe
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The Grenache Noir comes from a vineyard with vines that are around 30 years old. The vineyard is characterized by limestone gravel and large river pebbles with a high quartz content. The Carignan comes from a vineyard with a mixture of yellow and blue limestone marl and sandstone, pebbles and fossils. After harvesting by hand, the grapes were pressed and fermented spontaneously. The wine was aged in tanks for six months and bottled unfiltered with 45 mg sulphur (total).
Category: Rosé
Country of origin: Frankreich
Region: Languedoc
Designation/Sub-Region: -
Producer: Flo Busch
Grape variety: 65% Grenache Noir & 35% Carignan Noir
Alcohol content: 12,5%
Residual sugar: 2g/L
Acidity: 5g/L
Price: 13€
Nose:
Rhubarb and, excitingly, yogurt-like notes, flambéed orange zest, currants, white grapefruit and some raspberry, creating quite a spectrum
Taste:
Fine carbonic acid on the attack, tingling and crisp, rhubarb, grapefruit zest, rose petals, licorice, orange, minerality
Comment:
Sparkling, natural, complex, yet quite light due to the 12.5%. Interesting and certainly something for anyone looking for more exciting rosés.
90P
