Café-Guide: Athens, Greece
I don't believe it is even possible to sum up and rephrase the coffee culture of a city such as Athens, and a country, such as Greece. Much like in Italy or Turkey, coffee is a cultural pillar of the local community. It is therefore all the more difficult to present any kind of 'guide' or recommendation for Athens, but we do try to write a little about the places we did visit. Together with our reviews from the bars there, it can be pieced together as an imperfect mosaic of the depth of both food and drink culture.
Our first stop was Dope Roasting Co., which opens its post-industrial storefront and counters early when the streets are still wet from cleaning. If you have already read our impressions from Clumsies or have visited the city itself, you are aware of how much the connection to the city means to people. Sitting and sipping your morning coffee for locals means watching the street and greeting all of your acquaintances starting their day as well.
I was trying the Flat White, which I feel Greeks are a bit skeptical about. Maybe only due to the name though and the fact that it is served warm. If they gave it a different name and poured it over cold milk (which we will talk about a bit further below) it would be a great alternative to the classic Freddo. There are of course hundreds of variations for that type of coffee, but it is usually served only over ice or with milk foam, while the Flat White is usually understood to have less foam. The fresh beans were as pleasant as expected, possibly a bit closer in flavor to Italian roasts than contemporary Third Wave espresso roasts. The website names their Espresso blend as 'part Brazilian, part Guatemalan, part Honduran, part Ethiopian', but I’d say the Brazilian notes of dark chocolate are the most prominent when served as a Flat White. The overall number of offered roasts is rather small, but that speaks to how 'dialed in' they are.
My favorite coffee experience and one that blends the more easy-going vibes with high-level craft was at Kaya, in the center of the city, but hidden away from the tourists in a courtyard.
The whole café itself is one big shop window, so don’t expect any tables or seating area. My first impression was that of a trade show set-up, with grinders, brewers, espresso machines lined up next to each other behind the glass front. Orders are taken by getting in line with the locals, who are waiting for their caffeine to start their working day, at a window. No big menus, just excellent coffee. A bit of a contrast to the more ‘planned’ Dope Roasting, where you mostly find expats working on their laptops.
If the many different grinders were not already a hint, there are always different beans on offer, all suited and prepared meticulously, as the settings would differ depending on the bean itself and its use.
The two owners were somewhat pioneers when it comes to specialty coffee in Greece, and it shows in the level of detail and commitment and the fact that the café often looks more like a laboratory than an espresso bar. People matter here, and it is not surprising that Kaya is one of the few places in Athens that both serves contemporary roasts and also welcomes the old-school local coffee drinker, who will talk about the latest gossip at the order window while he waits for his or her brew.
My flat white was perfect in its nutty, almond taste, leaning away from the typical dark chocolaty espresso roast. As far as I know, their standard espresso blend is a mix of Brazil with some of the more 'earthy' origin countries, such as potentially Guatemala. I recommend going there in the morning, simply to witness a more local way of specialty coffee in the center of Greece's capital.
Our next stop is at Tailor Made Coffee Roasters, which I would consider the most trendy and ‘modern’ of all the specialty coffee places we have visited. It shows in their clean, white design language and the fact that they not only experiment with different coffee drinks, but also Matcha or chocolate, to cater to diverse tastes.
The 'tailor made' approach means, that technically you can tell them what kind of coffee you like, and they will make you something, that matches that. But it is a busy place, so don't expect any time-consuming discussion about roast levels, water temperatures and all those nerdy details. What you get here are quality beans and trendy drinks, which is why I tried a classic Greek 'Freddo', done their way, which means a little more cold milk.
Maybe not the most focused on coffee as in specialty coffee with rare beans, but a well-rounded café/bistro/bar concept that adds cool vibes to its quiet quarter in Athens: KINONO. On the ground floor of a residential building, its 'mid-century'-esque aesthetic and a lot of green set the scene for easy-going Espresso Tonics and, as always in the city, great smaller and bigger snacks.
The long counter and little details even when going downstairs or upstairs also make this another spot for meetings or work that is a little less crowded and popular than Dope Roasting. Not necessarily a place to visit just for the coffee itself.
Last but not least, there is Samba, another institution and pioneer for Greece's coffee scene. We visited their small corner shop a little outside the city center, where you mostly meet people from the surrounding fashion stores and offices getting their coffee on the go.
The family owned company started in the 1970s with importing and now has two café locations in Athens as well as their online shop. Despite the small size of the café, it is packed with accessories and products, which is why I also went for one of their ready-made products, instead of a 'fresh' coffee with their cold brew. It was as expected high quality and Samba is one of those brands where you can in good conscience order their offerings online.
Athens has such a myriad of great places to grab a coffee and just like in Italy, even the smallest corner shop will serve you a good, strong Espresso and some city gossip for the way. Where the city still has to find its footing is in the specialty places that serve rare beans and not just cater to tourists or expats looking for a place with Wi-Fi to work from. That of course is difficult with rising prices on the market and customers in Athens regarding their morning coffee not as a luxury good, but an affordable part of daily life.
/jf
