#55 | Candelaria, Paris, France
Last Visit: Fall 2023
Hotspots of Mexican food and drink culture are not necessarily the first thing you think of when visiting Paris. And yet Paris even has two of the latter: we've already written about La Mezcaleria, and now it's finally time for the OG, Candelaria. After the Little Red Door, it's practically the Parisian permanent guest in the World's 50. Opened in 2011, it made it onto this important list just one year later, was even in the top 10 another year later and remained a permanent guest until 2018! Followed by a comeback in the extended 100 list two years ago.
Copyright: Concrete Playground
It is located in a more than suitable neighborhood, Marais, one of the typical nightlife districts and especially one of the bar centers of Paris. Here you can go on bar tours for 2–3 evenings just on foot and still have more than enough on your list to work aka drink through.
As you approach the Candelaria Bar itself, it can be a little confusing. On one of the two fronts of the corner building, with darkened glass windows, the golden lettering is gleaming, but you can already see the inside of the bar when you pass it. If you turn the corner, however, after a short time you will see a bright white taco shop that contrasts with the dark glass prior to it. Have we gone a few steps too far, missed something? No, because it's only when you pass through the Taqueria that you find the longed-for destination behind a black, inconspicuous door. Thanks to the visible windows and the lettering around the corner, it really isn't speakeasy anymore, but it's still very casual and, above all, delicious and practical to have that food spot in front.
(click on the menu photos for original size:)
Copyright: Candelaria
Practical, as you can of course also enjoy a few — if not all — dishes from the taqueria in the actual bar, mainly tacos, tostadas and nachos, which change frequently. The cocktail menu, which is always colorful and nicely designed, is similarly varied, with a large part of it being changed or supplemented every 3–4 months, along with other weekly and event drinks. There are always 12 drinks on the menu, Old Fashioned riffs, creative milk punches, interesting, culinary long drinks, and to nobody's surprise in a big part — but not exclusively — with a focus on agave spirits. Of course, there are also often ingredients found in the Mexican kitchen: jalapeños, coriander, etc., you know the drill.
Even more impressive than the often changing output of the signatures is the “Agave Menu”, 8 pages of wonderful opportunities to immerse yourself in the nerdiness regarding the plant that has become so beloved around the world. Nicely designed and appropriately divided into flavors à la “Earthy”, “Sweet” and so on. There are even a few other, more niche Latin American spirits at the end. If you want, you can get some advice from the team of course, even if it's not possible to get a half hour lecture in such an active and busy bar. After spending only 20 minutes inside Candelaria, just asking about the mezcal used in a cocktail, the bartender gave me his favorite craft mezcal to try for free, what more can I say?
Speaking of both “bartender” and “well-attended”: On my last visit, Louis Lebaillif worked the shaker for me and was in a wonderfully good mood, including a few great jokes. At the same time, the bar is always packed due to its popularity with tourists and Parisians alike, and its slightly cave-like blueprint means that the average sound volume is always high, not to mention the music. So there is not necessarily an opportunity to talk to the staff in peace for minutes or anything like that, but this is simply not the right bar for that.
A slightly rustic interior, massive stone pillars in between, Latin American touches here and there with furs and knitted cushions as well as group tables and some spots to drink while standing if it gets really full. This is a bar for having a good time, a bar for partying, even if it's just to celebrate the end of the day. You come here with friends or at least colleagues you already know better and have fun, with drinks that are well above average and often outstanding.
XXX
| Pink Pepper Infused Bourbon
| Pomegranate
| Orange Flower
An exciting drink, somewhere between an Old Fashioned and a very dry Gimlet thanks to the cordial and then getting clarified with milk. The portion was not the biggest, in a particularly small rocks glass with a large cube, but it had a beautiful pink-orange color and a great aroma with a fruity spiciness. I would have really liked to try it without the clarification or as a non-milk punch. As it is, it is very balanced, not too spicy, slightly sweet, but also with a little freshness from the orange blossom water (in the cordial). Personally, I naturally prefer intense spiciness, which would certainly have gone well with the edgy name as well. Nevertheless, a cool combination of flavors (by the way, there's also a hint of Talisker in it) and a nice, subtle culinary creation.
Café Tropicana
| Mezcal
| Coconut
| Dark Chocolate
I was immediately impressed by the cocktail with its hearty, voluminous body, which instantly shows the characteristic of a fat wash in the most positive way. A buttery texture, but still subtly bitterness from a bitter liqueur (Fusetti) and the dark chocolate from the Mozart Dark Chocolate. In addition, with the earthiness of the mezcal and the coconut aroma, it is actually a little reminiscent of mocha notes, although the name is based on a café as in a pleasant location in some exotic country and not the drink of coffee itself. A great cocktail, not too overloaded, but precisely balanced and full-bodied with an elegant tropical twist.
Candelaria manages to maintain a very good balance. A balance between a rather laid-back atmosphere and a thoroughly serious, well-thought-out concept. The mostly loud and intense vibe meets the opportunity to sample real craft spirits for weeks if you want, without running out of new ones, tequila shots meet very well-made signature drinks with culinary influences. On my first visit 7 or 8 years ago, the design and the “vibe” of the bar were one of the reasons why I possibly couldn't really enjoy the drinks with my personal preferences at the time.
Today, with more openness towards a wide range of concepts, but also simply more desire to share and indulge in the good mood of strangers, as well as even more exciting drinks than back then, the Candelaria Bar has moved into the highlights of the city as far as my personal ranking is concerned. If you have just a hint of openness for agave or overwrite bad memories of it from your college days and simply like great atmosphere in your bars, you should definitely stop by here on your next trip to Paris.
/rds
Parts of the Agave Menu (click for original size):
