#63 | CiPiaCe, Brussels, Belgium
Last Visit: Spring 2025
Let's start our latest series of reports from the Belgian capital with a real little gem that has also taught me not to approach new bars, especially in other countries, with too many preconceptions.
"Italian Restaurant, Brunch restaurant, Cocktail Bar, and Espresso Bar" is how CiPiaCe describes itself online and to be completely honest: When I read that about a bar I want to visit for top cocktails, I rule it out, in advance, 90% of the time. It shouldn't work out with high quality drinks if you try to combine so many things. Then there's the typical Mediterranean-urban style in the photos and on the website. The first cover photo on the website that jumps out at you is a wonderfully delicious-looking plate of octopus. Don't get me wrong, the website is modern, very nicely done, and the same goes for the location itself. But it screams "nice, casual Italian bistro" so much; I've never had an actually creative craft cocktail worthy of this categorization in a venue like this. Until now!
CiPiaCe is located in the Saint Gilles district of Brussels, a lively but still authentic neighborhood: there are nearby weekly markets and antique markets, a number of new cafés and restaurants are always opening, it's busy in a positive sense. Strolling through a small pedestrian zone, we find the inviting green awning with the matching old green door next to it: From the outside, I wouldn't go here blindly for "mixology drinks", because I know such visuals from nice Italian bistros and daytime restaurants in Germany or even France. Where there is certainly good food, but as far as drinks are concerned, it stops at the G&T with a little rosemary or a highball with a bit of Italicus. Everything is a little sweeter and more smoothed out than in "real" cocktail bars.
The founders, Giorgia Giordano, an Italian-born mixologist, and her husband and head chef, Andrea Petruzzi, are responsible for the fact that many of those things are different here. Their origins in beautiful Puglia are reflected in the menu, of course, but also in the warmth exhibited by the rest of the team on site.
Copyright (lower pictures): Guerrino / Gusto Cultura
It shows for example in the extremely friendly reception that awaited me shortly after they opened for the day, as well as the interest in the guests. There was certainly still enough to do for the team, but at the latest when I mentioned (when asked) that I had only come to Brussels for the bars this time, I was asked and tested whether I had made the right choice (it was in fact completely approved, score 10 out of 10). In the hour or so I spent on site, I chatted to at least 3-4 wonderful team members, especially bartender Enzo, as if we already knew each other from several visits. Even though the boss wasn't there, you could feel the Italian warmth and directness, a final time when I was immediately given a menu as a souvenir when I asked for it on my way out.
But let's move on to the menu, which is quite something: a whopping 32 drinks, including a few non-alcoholic ones, 6 of which are signature Negroni riffs — it doesn't get more Italian. Accordingly, the drinks cover a wide spectrum, from lighter spritz-like (but always with a little twist) cocktails meant to be combined with some nice food and for relaxing in the outdoor area, to exciting and stronger stirred drinks (not just the Negronis, as we'll see below). Apart from the very large selection of drinks, there are of course various dishes. Small snacks that work perfectly as a complement to a visit primarily intended for the drinks, such as my small bruschetta with great, savory blue cheese and walnuts, through to various full meals. 10 antipasti alone with the best, fresh ingredients, as I was able to see live, octopus, as well as a selection of interesting pasta dishes. Everything is rooted in Italy (and often specifically Puglia) and yet almost always has an exciting interpretation of its own. This can be a small riff, or at least one, if not several ingredients that you won't find in "normal" or very traditional Italian bistros/restaurants.
(Click pictures for full size:)
Balsamic Manhattan
| Maker’s Mark Bourbon Whiskey
| Bordiga Elcesior Nebbiolo Vermouth
| White Balsamic Modena Vinegar
| Valdespino Sherry
| Fernet Branca Drops
A fantastic Manhattan riff and one of my favorite drinks of the trip. Simply because it surprises you so much. Or perhaps not, because everything is actually in the name. But this interplay between a Manhattan, which you would normally associate with heaviness, elegance and a certain sweetness, and in contrast the wonderfully fresh and crisp balsamic right from the start, is simply captivating. It's a bit of the classic Manhattan turned on its head, the acidity really invigorates you, but is never aggressive like some unpleasant shrub-based drinks in other bars, for example. You also notice the quality of the ingredients at all times, the Nebbiolo Vermouth, of course the balsamic vinegar, but also the sherry (one of my favorite bartenders swears by Valdespino). The few drops of Fernet add an elegant mint and are so perfectly portioned that you never really think of Fernet itself. A great cocktail! It also certainly gets another bonus point for the high-end "Martini service", aka changing the glass after 10 minutes to a super frosted one, another hint that this is a very serious cocktail joint.
Negroni Pepato
| Timut Pepper and Roses infused Martini Bitter
| CiPiaCe Vermouth Blend
| Bombay Sapphire
Simply an excellently balanced Negroni riff, it reminded me a little of the Indian-inspired twist at No Idea in Zurich. I've had both rose and various types of pepper in my Negronis before, but not in this exact combination, and it works very well. Both ingredients come through in perfect harmony (as with the first drink), the rose delicately floral, never too intense, which could otherwise turn slightly soapy at worst. The pepper is crisp and slightly tingling, but never too aggressive or with a negative aftertaste (which can easily happen with some types of pepper). Overall, a riff that knows very well how far it can go in order to remain a nice accompaniment to food. Not too wacky, but also anything but old-fashioned, no pun intended.
CiPiaCe was a wonderful example of how, even after 8–10 years of researching bars before traveling, you can still be fooled by your own experiences and the resulting prejudices when it comes to the look or general concept of a location. The bar + restaurant duality works extremely well and shows that you can also incorporate more intense and spirit-focused cocktails into the menu in addition to casual and/or fizzy drinks in such venues. At the same time, they offer fantastic — in this case Italian — food and fully fledged meals, not just a small snack here and there. The feel of the location may not be like a classic cocktail bar, but that's a pleasant change and fits in with the concept and the authentic Italian background. I will also remember the team in particular. A big recommendation, especially for the start of your evening in Brussels.
/rds
Excerpts from the rest of the menu (click for original size):
