#59 | Stjärtilleriet, Stockholm, Sweden
Last Visit: Spring 2025
A first time visit to Stockholm, Sweden and while I have visited most of the ranked and celebrated bars in the city, I would like to, almost literally, open with a salvo of unexpected flavor intensity at my favorite bar of the city. Stjärtilleriet fires away with impressive quality, despite busiest shifts and unassuming concepts.
Located on the right side of the Swedish Army Museum (which I visited the day after, unfortunately it is somewhat outdated and general), the bar has a large terrace area as well as an interior space that visually is close to a classic central European pub. The immediate association then would be the Goldene Bar in Munich, Germany, similarly located in a proper museum and not being constrained creatively by said museum.
When I visited, the street food festival Håll Käftival was winding down outside. Maybe that was the reason that every single seat on every table was filled, and the atmosphere was lively. Or maybe that was simply due to the weather getting better and the hours in the day longer, a national event, that can make Sweden during those summer weeks feel like a completely different country. It has to be said that I simply love the service mentality in Stockholm, even when there is no space left every guest is treated respectfully (as it was the case at two other bars on my first day). Here I got lucky as there were single seats left at the bar and most people came in groups.
The pictures below are a bit more quiet and well-lit compared to when I was there and despite there being an 'Omakase' option for cocktails on the menu, I wouldn't expect a focused dialogue with the staff about every single drink or ingredient. They did however answer everything promptly when I had a question, and it has to be said that being able to deliver drinks of this quality in the environment I experienced deserved respect.
There is also a proper restaurant (with different options for brunch and dinner, as well as wines and such) on the other side of the courtyard. It was closed during my visit, but if they serve the same cocktails in a more elevated environment, I would consider checking it out. The menu looks more than promising.
Copyright: Thatsup
With the restaurant and the location itself representing more serious vibes, Stjärtilleriet counters with cartoon-y irony. The entire website and design of the menu is pure fun and to me also a way how even a simple paper menu or online menu can be charming without the need to invest a lot of money into the production. Fermentation, foraging, local ingredients all play their part and in Sweden that is not just a trend to be put on best bar lists, but also a way to lower the cost of ingredients. Helps of course that here they can probably also rely on the restaurant kitchen for prep work.
I don't think it would surprise people, but cocktails are not popular, except maybe as a luxury product to enjoy as a status symbol. Drinking is usually done in combination with food (there was an interesting exhibition on that at the Nordic Museum, by the way) and mixed drinks can get expensive quickly. Perhaps another reason why service is so high on the list of priorities, as the guest experience needs to be worth the money spent.
Small Horse
| Plum I Suppose
| Plum Blossom
| Fermented Honey
A nose full of wild honey, the fermentation probably intensifies all the aroma. Floral, but in a complex way, not just petals, Swedish summers are also peculiar in that way. One wouldn't immediately think of plum, but just like in a perfume, it adds a boozy depth to the drink. With time, the honey melts into a mead-like taste. I have no idea when and how they have time to do carved ice cubes, but the quality (as is the case everywhere in the city) is exceptional. I also enjoy the large coupette, something you would expect in a wood-panelled Japanese bar, but maybe not in a museum-pub with a doodled menu. Using Empirical Spirits is a brave choice, and considering, the price is almost fair. (All drinks are priced at 179 kr, so roughly 24 Eur)
Espresso Martini On Steroids
| Caramelized Taggiache Olives
| Mr. Black Coffee Liqueur
| Tanzanian Dark Chocolate Foam
Usually I would not choose a drink that is already 'advertised' in reviews by droves of tourists, but this one was also recommended by the knowledgeable team at Othilia. It is also the only Espresso Martini I had during this trip. And it ended up being my personal favorite cocktail. Olives, earthy chocolate, sugary coffee, all balanced into umami. The olives on top, it has to be said, remind me of licorice and one has to like that. But then again, if you don't like licorice, you probably won't like the combination of olives and chocolate in the first place. There is also a 'regular' version of the Espresso Martini on the menu, hence the name, although the printed and online menu have different ingredients listed. Here no vodka is listed (as you can see above), but being the 'serious mixology authors' that we are, we of course 'investigated' (by asking the team, who were more than kind to provide us with the answers). On the online menu it says Absolut Vodka, while in fact it is Koskenkrova ClimateAction Vodka from Finland and added caramel, Taggiasca olives, as well as vanilla. Then the Mr. Black is added for stirring, and the chocolate foam with additional coffee and coriander seeds finishes the drink.
Without spoiling too much about the other visited bars (which include A Bar Called Gemma, Lucy's Flower Shop, Röda Huset, Othilia…), the simple excellence of these drinks and how they are able to represent local products makes Stjärtilleriet my favorite bar so far in Stockholm. I can only imagine that in the restaurant or on a more quiet day there is much more to learn about means and methods, and it is also a perfect opportunity for visitors to combine the museum with the bar (which opens at 16:00 already). So many of the other bars talk up their 'homemade ingredients' or how they wish to feature Swedish traditions, yet some of them were either flat or outright disappointing. The one place where the drinks actually did feel like uniquely local was of all places a military museum with a menu that does not look serious at all. If I had one thing to improve, it would be the communication about events (such as the street food) to travelers and internationals, as a lot of vital info can get lost in the artsy and funny design and the busy service.
/jf
