#67 | Donkey Shoe, Warsaw, Poland
Last Visit: Fall 2024
Our third example from Warsaw, after Feliks Bar (previously Zaremba Cafe) and El Koktel takes us not necessarily to Poland, but South America, Central America and a bit of Tex-Mex. Donkey Shoe made quite the impression on the Polish bar scene when it opened. Clearly, a lot of money and thought had been put into this speakeasy-style corner that is part of a larger project at the Norblina factory area.
The vibe is there. On arrival (and looking for the door) you go through the refurbished halls and follow the old wagon tracks that were left on the ground, passing countless other restaurants and foodcourt bars with any kind of cuisine you want. This is Warsaw showing itself from its newly confident side. Much like Elektrownia Powisle, also in Warsaw, or Montownia in Gdansk (which I can absolutely recommend), these are former industrial sites transformed into malls and sites for concerts or other events. They are usually run by well-funded companies and rarely will they stop at one bar. Norblina now has multiple bars by the same owner and attempts to position itself as a sort of hub for bar culture in Poland with cocktail competitions and masterclasses.
Copyright Left: PhonoMedia / Right: Donkey Shoe
The entrance to the bar itself is through a heavy iron door and then up some stairs into a rather cozy space. There are some seats, with the bar counter arranged in the name-giving horseshoe shape. Sitting down at the bar, the staff seemed to be surprised that anyone would: 1) Come in right after opening, 2) Wanted to sit alone at the bar, actually studying the menu. That might tell you that, despite the elaborate ingredient list and cultural concept, this is still just a well-designed space for dates and after-work drinks, a curated experience much more than an authentic South-American place.
As always, I trusted the recommendation of the staff with one lighter, sour-style cocktail and a more flavor intensive old-fashioned. There are some bar snacks as well, though I did not try any and besides, there are plenty of food choices right outside the door. I did not see a dedicated spirit list, but to be honest the selection behind the bar also did not interest me that much. A lot of very good industry standards, some of which are less well-known in Poland (like Angel's Envy Bourbon), but nothing you want to try on its own in a bar like this. The focus on (Central) America is evident, at least in comparison to other Polish bars, but you shouldn't expect any rare tequilas/mezcals or even special bottlings, etc.
Brisa Del Pacifico
| Bacanora
| Kumquat
| Meadow Saffron
| Citrus
| White Wine
| Cranberry
| Lemongrass
A herbal nose greets you, presumably the saffron and lemongrass, the taste is more like a bit of cough syrup (reduced in its intensity) and zesty lemon drops. There is a slight hint of salt, alluding to the 'breeze' in its name, but not enough to make it interesting. Maybe I would have wanted to taste the agave spirit on its own to see whether it has these flavors, and they were just masked by so many additional herbs. It is unfortunately a bit of a weak and watery drink. It has to be said however, that it's not a classic Sour/Margherita style cocktail, which makes me think the concept is what should convince people and the taste is for everyone. The white wine adds a nice edge here that I think should be remembered for similar cocktails.
Chamburrado
| Angels Envy Port Barrel Bourbon
| Coffee
| Caramel
| Banana
| Oloroso Sherry
| Chile Mulato
| Salt
Salted caramel in the nose, an Espresso Martini, but done as an ‘Old Fashioned’ and another crowd pleaser that lacks some complexity. Very dense and sweet, with all the sugary aromas mixing together to the point that they are indistinguishable. Malty coffee notes like ice cream with coffee, something that I usually like, but again there is not much of Tex-Mex (The Bourbon is from Kentucky). The pickled corn on top (or maybe that is the pepper mentioned in the ingredients, because the drink has zero spice?) is delicious and gives it its missing counter flavor. It would be great with a corn distillate, maybe a pepper infusion and something to balance that overwhelming sweetness. For the fact that this is a very good Bourbon with a nice finish that I like, the price at around 10 Euros is ridiculously fair. But then again, the sponsored choice of spirit is a bit pointless here and who knows how much of it is actually in the cocktail.
They are pretty proud of their frozen drinks, which I believe they serve all-year and while I did not try them, I can imagine what direction they would go in. In terms of the level of craft, the level of service and the overall design, Donkey Shoe is above average in all these categories. It is one of the few bars in Warsaw with good quality ice (even though it makes no difference for the drinks they serve) and I like the little woven coasters under each cocktail.
Yet to me, it lacks charm and authenticity, actual in-depth passion for local spirits from the Americas for example or bold flavors. The bar itself is in such a cool location, with history all around, but it does not use that potential. Instead, it remains a symptom of new money invested in trendy spots for a certain crowd.
Cheers,
/jf
Excerpts from the menu during the visit (click for original size):
