#66 | Mala Sztuka, Gdansk, Poland
Last Visit: Spring 2024
Our second bar from the Polish baltic coast in Gdańsk evokes the spirit of rum traders and ports that bring in exotic goods, and while it's not as old as Flisak, the history at Mala Sztuka matters as well.
Much like El Koktel in Warsaw, Mala Sztuka is often named as one of the earlier and most influential bars that brought true craft cocktails to Poland in the 2010s. Since then, through changes in management and the city itself changing, the bar has had its ups and downs in popularity and I frequently heard that its golden days were seemingly over (much like it is the case with Mercy Brown in Kraków or The Roots in Warsaw). More than enough reason to finally check it out and see for myself.
Copyright: Mala Sztuka
If Flisak has the vibe of an intellectual cellar pub, Mala Sztuka is a sailor's bar. Located in a cozy corner on the lower path of one of the canals running through Gdańsk, there is an area outside for seating and a somewhat roomy interior space. The bar counter area itself is rather small, and the low ceilings add to that. The overall design is a bit out of date, especially compared to all the newly build establishments in the rest of the city that were obviously working with a very different kind of budget.
What Mala Sztuka may lack in polish (no pun intended), they make up for with flavor and variety in my opinion, which earns them a spot in my personal Top 3 for Gdańsk. I had the chance to talk to all the staff and ask all questions I had about their Rum, and got to try more than I initially wanted. They themselves describe their drinks as 'tropical & classics', not straying too far away from typical Tiki, but also infusing just enough local charm.
This menu at the time of my visit, as you can see in our images at the bottom of this article, featured multiple parts. One being older drinks, or 'best-ofs' from past menus, then new signatures and also some ‘tropical classics’. The 'Tiki' inspiration is most obvious here, a lot of jungle (book) references and familiar classics in that section of the menu . There is an emphasis on decoration and presentation, which I realize adds to the opinions of the ‘fans’ as well as the ‘haters’.
Mala Sztuka has probably the best collection of Rum and Rhum north of and including Warsaw, and I trust the team there to work with their bottles and recommend something suitable for both beginners and nerds. I tried a Sol Tarasco Mushroom Rum that was actually tasty, especially after my drink, which was already an umami-bomb. I can see that product being used in a couple of bespoke drinks too. Also being a fan of Savanna HERR I was happy that when I asked for a funky and strong Daiquiri, this was what got recommended, and it turned out to be one of the top Daiquiri I ever had in Poland.
Fight the P…!
| Wild Strawberry Rum
| Parsley
| Pandan Leaves
| Pimento Dram
| Paprika
The combination of rum and spicy, peppery notes made me curious. It turned out to be more of a summery, seasonal drink, very sweet and on the easier side of drinks but pleasant in its red pepper and paprika aftertaste, where the pimento blends nicely into the background instead of being just dark cinnamon. Poles love their strawberries and this is basically candied strawberry with a little savory twist. A good starter for everyone. If this had been the only drink for the visit, or if I had this served as an absolute Rum/Rhum fanatic, maybe I would have been disappointed. Also, the Ukrainian flag and concept of this drink deserves recognition.
Chinatown
| Vodka
| Chives
| Ginger
| Lemongrass
| Gochugaru
| Mushrooms
| Soy
When I asked which drink was the most flavor intense, but not too boozy, this was the suggestion and it was a good one. Spicy, fresh, biting spring onion on top the drink served in a takeout box. Literally like food and I can respect the commitment to the concept. This wouldn't work in an elegant restaurant or hotel bar, but at a Tiki adjacent bar with a taste for flavor, it's perfect. The sauces, both spicy, sweet and salty give it tons of umami. It is no surprise that the base alcohol doesn't really matter. The only negative for me is the quick dilution due to the crushed ice, but maybe that is to help people for whom the drink has too much flavor. Generally it has to be said that Gdańsk in general needs to catch up when it comes to the quality of ice, especially compared to the cities on the other side of the Baltic Sea, like Stockholm.
In conclusion, I can still see what made this bar the go-to for so many 5–10 years ago and why everyone is telling legendary stories from the Better Bar Shows and the after parties there. I have the advantage that I only have the experience of my later visit and don't have to compare it to any previous.
I understand that changes in management and staff also change the character of a bar. Or that someone can feel a certain sense of loyalty and nostalgia to how it was before, we here at LT are guilty of that sometimes too. But at least as of 2024, Mala Sztuka still delivers lots of funky flavors in modern 'Tiki-esque' drinks as well as a professionally curated selection of Rum for fair prices. That 'its not the same as it used to be' I can believe, but that doesn't make it bad and I do prefer it to some of the newer, more aesthetic and streamlined places that opened on the Polish coast in recent years.
Cheers,
/jf
Excerpts from the menu during the visit (click for original size):
